A Taste of Beaufort By the Sea

by Landie Maher

The seaside town of Beaufort has been welcoming sailors from all over the world for hundreds of years.  Beaufort is a port town, a pirate town,  a beautiful town mixed with down-home locals and an influx of people from all over. Whether it’s new-comers, tourists or travelers on their way to some exotic locale, Beaufort is a must for everyone, and in it you’ll find a little bit of everything:  ghost walks, pirate tours, boat tours, shopping, and dining out. The last is a must.  Everybody’s “got to eat.”  This is a Taste of Beaufort.

Beaufort has that slow, easy-does-it pace a nice stroll or leisurely bike ride can give you, where taking in the seaside air or waving to passersby is that much easier.  Hop on your bike and head down to Front Street as early as you can manage. The waterfront is peaceful at this time—not much activity other than the rocking of boats and the clanging of their lines. 

The Coffee Shop on Turner Street is open at this hour and you can help yourself wake up with a quick cup of Costa Rican coffee, a hot breakfast sandwich or fresh-out-of-the-oven oatmeal cookies they make there from scratch.  Pick up a bar of Escazú artisan chocolate to stash in your bag for a pick-me-up later.  Chat with some locals while you’re at it, or hang with the sailors while they’re waiting for the weather to change.

Across the street you’ll find The Royal James Cafe, the B-movie of Beaufort dining spots.  With The James’ kitschy charm and great burgers on the cheap, you can’t go wrong.  Put some tunes on the jukebox and play a game of pool here later at this throw-back bar after a day of marauding through Beaufort. 

Head down to Front Street next and make a right.  You’ll pass the Maritime Museum—a must-see, it’s free!  On the waterfront side of the street you’ll find two restaurants worth checking out.  Both have outdoor seating, both have excellent food, both are family owned. 

You’ll reach Front Street Grill at Stillwater (or just Stillwater) first.  You’ll be greeted by an elegant dining room with cool, crisp white linens, and a warm and relaxed staff.  Take in a wide vista of Taylor’s Creek from the dining room—you could’ve arrived by boat!  Head to the outside bar for a Pain Killer, a piña colada like drink that will instantly de-stress you, so you can completely enjoy your surroundings. The food at Stillwater is excellent, and like the people of Beaufort, wide-ranging.  You can get everything from pimiento cheese, to tuna sashimi, to fried plantains or a good ol’ filet mignon.  Great date spot, or if you’re local, bring out-of-towners, they’ll love the view.

Spouter Inn is just past Stillwater.  You’ll enjoy the same spectacular view, with a little more casual feel.  It has its own bakery which is rare in these parts, so take advantage!  Make sure to have the strudel when you’re at Spouter, (the blueberry is the best) and at least a couple of generous and delicious eclairs.   Have the crab cakes or The Otway Burns sandwich.  It is legend around here, much like the man himself.  Walk off your lunch with a brisk stroll over to the Old Burial Ground on Ann Street where you can check out Burns’ gravesite.

A great Sunday brunch, lunch, or dinner option is only one block off Front Street on Queen.  Don’t let its name or looks confuse you.  It’s not a shop.  It’s not a house.  It’s Beaufort Grocery Co., a great little restaurant.  Look for the green awnings outside, green and white, checkered tablecloths inside to match.  Beau Gro’—as the locals call it, is my favorite lunch spot.  The No. 7 Apple Granny sandwich is renowned—chicken salad with granny smith apples.  This menu item was recently voted Best of North Carolina.  Get the fresh fish sandwich of the day if you’d like a taste of local seafood.  (Just don’t go on Tuesdays, they’re closed.)

Next door is Blue Moon Bistro, also disguised as a house, with fine dining inside, but for dinner only.  Blue Moon Bistro is small and homey but still refined and welcoming.  You’ll feel at ease the moment you step in the door.  Have the shrimp and grits martini to start or the pork dumplings with tamarind ginger sauce.  You’ll forget where you are for a minute!  Speaking of which, adding something unexpected and exotic to something local, Blue Moon has tempura battered soft shell crabs, light and delicious!  Linger over a bottle of wine as long as you’d like in this cozy spot.

If you’re in Beaufort, a stop at The Backstreet Pub is almost a requirement.  It is THE Beaufort bar.  Don’t ask for a martini or a daiquiri here though—at The Pub it’s wine and beer only, but with an outstanding micro-brew selection. You’ll find Backstreet on Middle Lane, a quaint hundred-year-old brick building with a garden patio out back.  It’s classic on the outside, classic on the inside—dusty and covered with flags, photos, boat salvage, and books.  A conversation at The Backstreet is like a game of dice; you never know what you’re gonna roll:  from politics to physics to “how was your day?”  Have a beer or play a game of dominoes at this great dive.

Right beside Backstreet Pub, you’ll  find Aqua.  You’ll feel very sophisticated at this modern looking spot when you meet your girlfriends on Friday night for $5 martinis.  You’ll look fabulous with the funky but flattering lights warming up your complexion, and feel fabulous drinking your Berry Lemonade martini.  It’s sweet and tart, fun and flirty just like Aqua.  It’s hip and slick enough for the guys too, so get together and share a few of the many tapas style plates in one of Aqua’s cool booths.  The Bento box is one:  seared tuna, sushi, and calamari salad in a sleek black lacquered box.  The onion tart with smoked blue cheese and figs would go nicely with one of Aqua’s many fine wines.  Look for the creme brulee of the day.  Could be chocolate, could be lavender...

Aqua’s sister restaurant is behind Aqua and Backstreet Pub on Front Street. It’s Clawson’s, an old standby.  If you’ve been to Beaufort, even many years ago, you’ve probably already been to Clawson’s.  Your grandparents or great-grandparents may have shopped there back in the early 1900’s when Clawson’s was a grocery store.  The walls are practically covered with old advertisements, memorabilia and photos of Beaufort’s past, so you’ll have plenty to look at while you enjoy your outstanding burger, salad or baby back ribs.  Like Beaufort, Clawson’s is a step back in time, a place where people are happy to see you. A place to come and get a taste of real southern hospitality.

A trip to Beaufort wouldn’t be complete without a stop at The Dockhouse.  Wind down from your busy day there with a cocktail, a beer, a bite to eat, or just hang out and take in the water view.  Look for dolphins swimming by and wild ponies across the creek on Carrot Island.  Sailboats and sparkling sunsets are your backdrop while you watch one of the many local bands jam out some summer tunes right on the dock here at the aptly named Dockhouse, a decades old, converted two-story white house.  You can sit back and enjoy it all from upstairs or down, feel the salty breeze, and get into the Beau-Zone.  Beaufort. It’s that place where you want to be.

And if the band at Dockhouse is too loud, or you don’t feel like your night is quite finished, take a little late night walk back over to Turner Street where you found The Coffee Shop this morning.  Connected to it is Cru Bar, a dark wood bar you just might manage to slip into unnoticed.  If spotted, you’ll be greeted by a friendly face or two and a mellow crowd. Have a nightcap of Courvoisier or Kahlua and coffee with whipped cream, and admire the old original tin ceilings and brick walls.  The Cru was the site of the original Maritime Museum and is herself a true Beaufort original. 

So whatever brings you to our little Beaufort-by-the-Sea--business, a boat, or maybe it’s your great get-away--know that there’s always things to do, people to meet, and places to eat. And know this, as well: once you get a “Taste of Beaufort” you’ll keep coming back for more.

1. Landie Maher is a resident of Beaufort and the morning host at The Coffee Shop mentioned in the opening.  About writing she says, “The opportunity to write is a thrill and a delight and a gift.  It's so much fun!”

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